How Stress Affects Your Skin Barrier + 4 Ways to Protect It

Learn how stress affects your skin and how to increase your skin’s natural resilience to stress with plant-based product recommendations.

Our skin is an intricate and astounding organ, protecting our bodies from harsh elements and pathogens every. single. moment. of every single day. And did you know that the everyday demands on our skin increase when we’re in a state of stress? If you are an empath or triggered by the violence that is rampant in our country, are a parent of a young child, fighting on the front lines to keep women’s rights protected, or living in support of a loved one with mental illness (as with me), you know stress. In this post, I’ll explain how stress, specifically psychological stress, affects your skin. I’ll also explore ways to protect and strengthen the skin’s barrier function with plant-based oils and antioxidants, and bring a little peace to your mind at the same time.

How the Skin Barrier Works

One of the skin’s main roles is to act as a barrier between our body and the rest of the world, keeping moisture in while protecting us from viruses, bacteria, and allergens. The skin barrier is in the skin’s outermost layer, the stratum corneum, one of several layers of cells and sebum (a mixture of lipids, wax esters, fats, and fatty acids) that make up the epidermis.

What degrades the skin’s barrier function? Many of us know about the damaging effects of UV light, pollution, excessive exfoliation, and harsh chemicals. But did you know that psychological stress causes inflammation that damages the skin too?

How Stress Affects Your Skin Barrier

A stressed-out state of mind can lead to increased inflammation and a slower natural healing response. How?

Stress activates two major neuronal pathways:

The sympathetic nervous system, which activates proinflammatory cytokines
The hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis, which activates the release of cortisol

The Sympathetic Nervous System and Cytokines

The sympathetic nervous system is the fight-or-flight state that’s activated when we encounter dangerous or stressful situations. Our heart rate increases as cortisol boosts our alertness and energy levels. Cortisol also activates T helper cells to produce cytokines.

How stress affects your skin through cytokines: Cytokines are signaling proteins that, among other functions, spur inflammation. While inflammation is a natural part of the body’s healing process, it can cause damage over time. As demonstrated in this 2001 study, psychological stress degrades skin barrier function.

When the skin barrier is compromised, it no longer functions effectively. At a certain point, the barrier can no longer keep water from evaporating, which can lead to an excessive loss of moisture. The skin becomes dehydrated, which exacerbates inflammation and can lead to various dermatological disorders. This is one reason dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema, acne, rosacea, and allergic reactions tend to flare when we’re under stress.

Moreover, an immune system in a state of hypervigilance can lead to allergic reactions and itching, or flare ups with autoimmune skin conditions. These responses can further impair the skin’s ability to respond to environmental stressors, according to a 2018 study.

Hypothalamic-Pituitary-Adrenal (HPA) Axis and Cortisol
The hypothalamus has links to both the nervous system and pituitary gland. When we’re in a state of acute stress, the hypothalamus sends signals via the pituitary gland for the adrenals to release cortisol.

In short bursts, cortisol reduces inflammation. But if levels remain high for an extended period, dysfunctional regulation leads to inflammation. (For more on the HPA Axis and how to balance cortisol levels with plant-based preparations, check out Aromatherapy & the Stress Response Cycle.)

How stress affects your skin through cortisol: Cortisol is released into the skin through an enzyme in keratinocyte skin cells. This process disturbs keratinocyte proliferation, leading to delayed wound healing, which is why stress is a major factor in slowed healing of acne lesions, dull or thick skin, and a dehydrated or rough skin surface It also degrades fibroblasts, cells we love because they synthesize the collagen that gives our skin structure and a youthful appearance.

How to Protect and Strengthen Your Skin Barrier

If you skimmed through the scientific breakdown, we’ve finally reached the point of discussing the ways you can improve barrier function!

A great start to protecting and strengthening your skin barrier is to make sure you have healthy ways to process and release stress. Lifestyle practices like meditation and yoga can be helpful. In my NAMI (National Alliance on Mental Illness) Family-to-Family class, I also explored other aspects of self care that are very valuable, like expressing feelings, sharing your burdens, engaging in community, and seeking professional help.

Externally, you can improve your skin barrier function with lipid rich and anti-inflammatory skin care products. Here are four essential summer products I recommend to clients leading high-stress lives. Two of them actively nourish and support the skin barrier. The other two help prevent damage from stress.

Nourish and Support

Facial Recovery Oil from Eminence Organics
Healthy skin needs adequate linoleic acid to seal in moisture, according to Brian Goodwin, an international educator for Eminence Organics Skin Care. Linoleic acid is an omega-6 fatty acid that’s plentiful in many of my favorite plant-based oils. Sesame oil contains up to 45% linoleic acid, and olive oil up to 17%. Olive and sesame oils have been shown, in third party studies, to increase hydration in the skin up to 53% in 28 days. And if you’re acne prone, rest assured that the healthy fats in the Facial Recovery Oil plus the antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties of tea tree and clary sage essential oils will most likely improve your condition.

Restorative Mind-Body Massage Oil from Stony Creek Aromatics

Clinical evidence shows that the barrier function can be improved by inhaling essential oils with a sedative effect. I formulated the Restorative Mind-Body blend with rose, sandalwood, and lavender to do just that. The essential oils are in a base of nourishing plant oils — jojoba, apricot kernel, almond, and avocado — that support the skin barrier on their own. This may actually have some positive effects on your internal state, too. Evidence suggests that inflammation exacerbated by stress can cause feelings of malaise. Keeping the skin healthy may also keep our brains happy, and could be the start of a positive cycle. Restorative Mind-Body Massage Oil can be applied to the full body, excluding the face, every day on damp skin after bathing to ease stress. When applied mindfully and with deep breaths, you are supporting your skin barrier function and overall wellness of body and mind.

Prevent

Any kind of inflammation can disrupt the skin barrier, so our aim here is to protect against inflammation from oxidative stress and UV light. That way, our skin is less likely to sustain damage when psychological stress triggers inflammation, as explained above. In short, antioxidants and sun protection make our skin more resilient overall, which is why it’s doubly important to use them in the summer and in times of stress.

Citrus & Kale Potent C+E Serum from Eminence Organics

As a powerful antioxidant, vitamin C protects against oxidative stress that can diminish skin barrier function at the cellular level. Because of its unique formulation, the vitamin C in this blend stays active on your skin for up to three days. It contains vitamin C “salt” (sodium ascorbyl phosphate), a stable compound that converts to vitamin C on contact with the skin to deliver maximum antioxidant protection. And the C sourced from lemon and grapefruit (L-ascorbic acid) is stabilized with plant-derived ferulic acid to help retain the antioxidant properties. Finally, research suggests that topical vitamin C is most effective when combined with vitamin E, which this formula does with vitamin E derived from avocados.

Lilikoi Daily Defense Moisturizer SPF 40 from Eminence Organics

Finally, protect your hardworking skin from inflammation caused by UV damage with this all-natural, mineral-based sunscreen. It is made with cocoa seed extract and satsuma mandarin peel, with SPF 40 from zinc oxide. It also protects against blue light from screens, and is suitable for all skin types.

In Closing,

Our skin is always working to keep us in a state of balance, protecting us from pathogens, allergens, and exposure to the elements. As a vital part of our Earthly experience, it’s only natural that we’d want to show our skin plenty of love in return. No matter how stress affects your skin, you can increase your resilience to it with plant-based oils, antioxidants, and mineral-based sunscreen. You might even find that your new skin care rituals leave you more centered and less stressed — perhaps it’s the start of a whole new way of being.

For personalized recommendations on plant-based products that will keep your skin resilient as you meet the demands of your day, schedule a virtual consultation with Jessica.

Essential Oils for Stress & Our Restorative Mind-Body Blends

Stress is something we all deal with, and 2020 has had more than its fair share of stressful moments.

Between the pandemic, virtual schooling, and the holidays, I’ve seen first-hand how stress can often cause us to cross the fine line between wellness and distress.

With my clients, I’ve also seen how stress can negatively affect the skin’s health, causing acne flare-ups and dullness. With all this in mind, I remain committed to using essential oils for stress and continually rediscover them as a wonderfully natural and affordable way to stay centered during trying times.

As we approach the holiday season, many of us are looking for simple, enjoyable tools that can help us stay balanced during the increased seasonal stress. We’re also looking for high-quality, sustainably made gifts to help loved ones feel better, too. Our Stony Creek Aromatics line is a wonderful option for anyone who wants to pamper themselves—or their loved ones—with a hand-crafted blend of luxurious, stress-relieving oils. I formulated this line myself based on my experience as an esthetician and certified aromatherapist, and I use it during nearly all of our facials at the spa.

A Peek Inside Stony Creek Aromatics

When I received my aromatherapy certification, my research paper centered around “10 Essential Oils for Stress.” Since wrapping up my studies, I’ve channeled my knowledge into our Stony Creek Aromatics Restorative Mind-Body Blends, which feature 5 of my favorite essential oils for stress (keep reading to see why each one is so powerful in its own right).

Our Restorative Mind-Body Ritual Oil is a concentrated 20% blend of these essential oils that can be applied at pulse points, like your wrists or temples, to help soothe stressful flare-ups. (For more info about pulse points, check out our YouTube video here.) Our ritual oil is a fabulous product to keep in your purse, your car, or on your desk for when you need help finding your inner balance. This calming oil is also wonderful to keep by your bed to help you ease into a restful sleep. We use it during facials at the spa by placing a few drops on warm towels and aromapoints. Crafted with this love, this luxurious blend features only the highest quality oils and makes a lovely gift for anyone struggling with stress.

{Shop our Restorative Mind-Body Ritual Oil, here}

Our Restorative Mind-Body Massage Oil is less concentrated than the ritual oil (2%), making it a lovely option for a full-body application. We use this oil at the spa anytime we finish a facial with a stress-relieving neck and shoulder massage. But don’t feel like you need to tuck this bottle away for an occasional massage! It also locks in moisture beautifully after a shower or bath, and many of our clients use it regularly to replace their body lotion.

Part of the reason our Restorative Mind-Body Massage Oil makes such a wonderful daily moisturizer is that the stress-relieving essential oils are suspended in super-nourishing, certified organic fatty oils, like jojoba, apricot kernel, almond, and avocado. When your skin is freshly towel-dried, it’s able to soak up and lock in these oils much more efficiently than when it’s dry. (Try applying a body oil after your next bath or shower, and you’ll see for yourself that it’s a completely different experience than the greasy sensation you get when applying oil to dry skin!) In my practice, I’ve found nourishing body oils to be far superior to body lotions if applied to damp skin, and lotions often include preservatives and ingredients that I don’t want on my skin or entering my bloodstream.

This silky body oil is a wonderful gift for anyone who could use a loving touch during stressful times.

{Shop our Restorative Mind-Body Massage Oil here.}

My 5 Favorite Essential Oils for Stress

After receiving my aromatherapy certification and experimenting with essential oils for years, I’ve narrowed in on my 5 favorite essential oils for stress that blend harmoniously. All of these stress-relieving oils are featured in our Stony Creek Aromatics Restorative products. The finished scent is perfectly balanced and includes oils from various plant parts, including the flower, wood, citrus, and leaf.

Rose Otto (Rosa x damascena)

This is an exceptional essential oil, and it takes 50 roses to make a single drop. With that in mind, we use each precious drop of rose otto essential oil with the utmost respect. Rose otto is the only essential oil I know of that helps regulate cortisol, which helps suppress inflammation in the body. If the body is chronically stressed, it can release too much cortisol, leading to various health concerns. Rose otto essential oil can also help decrease blood pressure and heart rate (Mohebitabar et al., 2017). In herbalism and other plant-based practices, rose is often called upon to soothe the heart, especially in matters of grief.

Sandalwood (Santalum album)

Sandalwood essential oil has a woodsy, sensual smell that helps instill a feeling of security and trust, encouraging an inner piece throughout the day. It’s no wonder that it has been used in spiritual ceremonies for centuries!

Sandalwood essential oil is also found in many skincare products to help soothe redness, blemishes, dry skin, and fine lines. There’s an emerging field of study named “psychodermatology” where scientists are actively studying the links between our mental and skin health. In that field, sandalwood is one of the most potent essential oils for atopic dermatitis and psoriasis because of its ability to inhibit an inflammation-causing enzyme that’s partially triggered by stress (Moy, R.L., & Levenson, C., 2017).

Sweet orange (Citrus sinensis)

Cold-pressed from orange peels, this delightful essential oil smells exactly like a freshly sliced orange. Aromatherapists traditionally use sweet orange essential oil to boost the mood while simultaneously decreasing feelings of depression. This use was confirmed in 2012 by a controlled scientific study. In the study, 40 men were exposed to a stressful situation. The men who smelled sweet orange essential oil before the stressful situation stayed significantly calmer throughout the experience (Goes et al., 2012). More studies are needed to know the full effects of sweet orange essential oil for anxiety and depression, but it’s always exciting to see modern studies align with traditional uses.

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

Loved around the world, lavender is one of the most popular essential oils for stress and anxiety. Dozens of studies (if not more!) have demonstrated lavender’s ability to ease tension and promote a sense of calm and relaxation (Koulivand et al., 2013).

Lavender is also a very popular essential oil for skincare, where it’s often used to help soothe minor skin irritations, like burns, bug bites, itchy skin, and soreness.

Patchouli (Pogestemon cablin)

Patchouli is a scent that people either love or hate, and you may have strong scent associations with patchouli if you grew up in the 60s! Fortunately, the strong, earthy patchouli scent blends seamlessly with other aromas, so it’s not overpowering in our Stony Creek blends. In fact, I tested our Restorative Massage Oil on 50+ Google employees at a Stress Fair – many of them hated patchouli, but they loved the smell of our well-balanced oil!

According to Aromatics International (a wonderful essential oil supplier), patchouli oil helps calm things down – from rising anxiety to irritated, red spots on the skin. In a 2018 randomized controlled trial, emergency room nurses who inhaled patchouli essential oil showed significantly lower signs of stress and compassion fatigue at the end of a shift than nurses who did not smell the oil (You Kyoung et al., 2020).

In Closing,

It’s wonderful to know that these essential oils for stress are readily available and completely natural. If you’ve been experiencing increased signs of stress and anxiety lately, then we hope you’ll consider treating yourself to one of our Restorative Mind-Body oils. Remember that gentle lifestyle practices, including mindfulness, yoga, and exercise, can also go a long way in combating stress naturally.

For more about the connection between stress and our skin, see our blog posts:
Aromatherapy & the Stress Response Cycle
Psychological Stress + Skin Barrier Function

REFERENCES

Goes TC, Antunes FD, Alves PB, Teixeira-Silva F. (2012). Effect of sweet orange aroma on experimental anxiety in humans. J Altern Complement Med. 18(8):798-804. doi: 10.1089/acm.2011.0551.

Koulivand, P. H., Khaleghi Ghadiri, M., & Gorji, A. (2013). Lavender and the nervous system. Evidence-based complementary and alternative medicine : eCAM, 2013, 681304. https://doi.org/10.1155/2013/681304

Mohebitabar, S., Shirazi, M., Bioos, S., Rahimi, R., Malekshahi, F., & Nejatbakhsh, F. (2017). Therapeutic efficacy of rose oil: A comprehensive review of clinical evidence. Avicenna journal of phytomedicine, 7(3), 206–213.

Moy, R. L., & Levenson, C. (2017). Sandalwood Album Oil as a Botanical Therapeutic in Dermatology. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 10(10), 34–39.

You Kyoung Shin, So-Young Lee, Jeong-Min Lee, Purum Kang, and Geun Hee Seol (2020).The Journal of Alternative and Complementary Medicine.Nov 2020.1032-1038.http://doi.org/10.1089/acm.2020.0206

Aromatherapy to Enhance a Facial Treatment

Aromatherapy is the use of aromatic compounds to create a desirable therapeutic action. The most commonly known Aromatherapy practices involve essential oils, the volatile oils found in the secretory structure of aromatic plants. Essential oils are often diffused, applied topically at various concentrations, or added to wash off bath and body products. An esthetician has a unique opportunity for integrating essential oils into her practice and can make a profound impact because of the intention she sets for a relaxing and rejuvenating client experience. Most importantly, essential oils can be safely applied, not by adding them to skin care products (because that would often be too harsh for the skin), but by using them on hot towels. Simply dropping one or two drops on the towel positioned on the client’s chin, and allowing them to breathe it in for a minute or two, is enough to positively alter the facial experience.

I change the Essential Oils used in my facial room seasonally. After being closed for 4 months due to COVID-19, I had to reflect on which oils would help people the most as they re-enter to the Apothecary. Returning to touch, while living much of our day socially distancing, requires trust. To ease any anxiety and to help people relax deeper into the experience, I have carefully chosen specific essential oils to use on the warm towels throughout the facial.

🌸 In the beginning of the facial, I created a blend of Cedarwood (Juniperus virginiana) and Melissa (Melissa officinalis) . Cedarwood is a base note which means that it has a larger molecular structure and slower evaporation rate. It is grounding and fortifying. One of my favorite descriptions of Cedarwood is by Gabriel Mojay in his book, “Aromatherapy and Healing the Spirit”. He says, “Steadying the conscious mind, it helps us to resist the sudden events and powerful emotions that threaten to undermine our confidence and morale.”

Melissa, or lemon balm, is a powerful anxiolytic. I have personally helped a loved one out of a panic attack within just minutes of administering inhalation of this oil. My teacher, Florian Birkmayer, MD, in his years as a Psychiatrist, Equine Therapist, and Aromatherapist, says that in addition to relieving “overstimulation, stress, anxiety, insomnia, depression, (Melissa) lowers high blood pressure, and calms over-rapid breathing and heartbeat”.

🌸 In the middle of the facial, to help create greater ease in the body and mind, I use my Stony Creek Aromatics Restorative Mind-Body Diffusing Oil. I’ve sung the praises of this research conducted on the five oils in this blend in my article, https://jessicasapothecary.com/aromatherapy-the-stress-response-cycle/. This blend of Sweet Orange, Lavender, Sandalwood, Patchouli and Rose sinks us deeper into our heart center, reminds us to take a deep breath, and lowers heart rate and cortisol.

🌸 To conclude the facial, I choose either Corn Mint (Mentha arvensis) or Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi). Both essential oils are top notes that help give a mental lift after the hour-long trance of a facial. Corn Mint, or Wild Mint, contains menthol that awakens the senses. Andrea Butje, director of the Aromahead Institute, describes it best when she explains how the plant part used in the distillation has an effect on the therapeutic action. As in the case of corn mint, she says, just as leaves allow the plant to breathe, “We can use oils made from leaves to support respiration and deeper breathing. They can help us breath when we feel stress and anxiety, while supporting expansion and creativity.”

As with all citrus oils, Pink Grapefruit contains d’limonene, which can relieve anxiety and give a sparkle that lifts the mood.

Integrating essential oils into our facials helps to create a more holistic experience. Not only is our goal to rejuvenate the skin externally, but foster well being that promotes the longevity of skin health! For more on how mental health effects skin health, check out Psychological Stress & Skin Barrier Function.

Psychological Stress + Skin Barrier Function

Skin is our first line of defense against irritants, pathogens and environmental stressors. The epidermis contains sebum (a mixture of lipids, wax esters, fats, and fatty acids) (1), layered with keratinocytes and corneocytes (skin cells in the epidermis) that help seal in moisture while keeping viruses, bacteria, and allergens out. The barrier function is easily disturbed, however. External factors, namely UV exposure and pollution, are well known to compromise the barrier of the skin. In my studies I have discovered that increased cortisol levels and inflammation that occur during psychological stress also contribute to the deterioration of the skin barrier. This blog will focus on the science behind psychological stress and its role in the disturbance of the skin’s barrier function. Don’t worry, I will also tell you what you can do to protect and strengthen it too!

Stress activates two major neuronal pathways: the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) Axis and the Sympathetic Nervous System (2). In my blog, Aromatherapy & the Stress Response Cycle, I mention the HPA Axis and how high levels of cortisol, our primary stress hormone, can lead to imbalance in the body. To recap, during acute stress the Hypothalamus in the brain sends signals, via the pituitary gland, for the release of corisol by the adrenals. An exciting finding is that various organs in the body, including skin, have their own peripheral HPA mechanism. In this way, the skin “acts like an endocrine organ” (3).

The way in which cortisol is released into the skin is via an enzyme in our Keratinocyte cells. That enzyme is called 11 beta-Hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1 (HSDI), or Cortison reductase. It activates endogenous, or naturally occurring, cortisone and converts it to cortisol. HSDI is also activated by UVB light, which then increases cortisol in the epidermis (3). This is one of the factors responsible for delayed wound healing, the disturbance of keratinocyte proliferation, as well the destruction of fibroblasts which are responsible for the creation of collagen and elastin in the dermis (4,5). Stress is a major factor in delayed healing of acne lesions, dull or thick skin, a dehydrated or rough skin surface, and loss of elasticity and density. Psychological stress triggers HSDI and disrupts homeostasis, the delicate balance in the skin.

In addition to the HPA Axis, stress also activates the Sympathetic Nervous System (2). According to the research gathered by A. Garg, “The peripheral nervous system and the skin are intimately connected via free nerve endings that extend to the epidermis” (6). Nerve fibers (and cortisol levels) activate cytokines, or stress mediators in various cells, and have an inflammatory effect. During acute psychological stress the skin’s immune cells are the target of a cytokine assault. Specifically, nerve fibers activate mast cells and cortisol activates Th1 cells to product cytokines (7). Immune cells can become overreactive and cause allergic reactions and itching, and even auto-immune disorders like psoriasis.

The collateral damage of these complex neuroendocrine and immune responses is that they “impair the ability of the skin to respond to environmental challenges” (8). When the skin barrier becomes compromised, it no longer functions effectively. Water loss (called Transepidermal Water Loss, or TEWL) occurs when the barrier can no longer keep water from evaporating. Dehydrated skin with a compromised barrier exacerbates inflammation and disease and can lead to various dermatological disorders. Dermatitis, Psoriasis, Eczema, Acne, Rosacea, and allergic reactions can all become worse when undergoing psychological stress.

If you skimmed through the scientific breakdown in the last few paragraphs, we have finally reached the point of discussing the ways you can improve barrier function! Managing stress addresses the skin from the inside, while treating with lipid rich and anti-inflammatory skin care products supports it from the outside. Looking inward, for individuals struggling with depression, studies show that taking an SSRI decreased the levels of HSDI in the skin (3). Also, created to support a decrease in cortisol and relief from depression, I recommend using my Stony Creek Aromatics’ Restorative Mind-Body Massage Oil. Clinical evidence shows that the barrier function can be improved by inhaling essential oils with a sedative effect (3), in particular the rose, sandalwood, and lavender in this blend. In a zoom class I attended this month with Aparna Ishvari on Abhyanga massage, I learned that in Ayurveda the application of plant oils is understood to “anchor the nervous system” by providing calm to the nerve endings. In a base of Jojoba, Apricot Kernel, Almond, and Avocado, the Restorative Mind-Body Massage Oil can be applied to the full body, excluding the face, every day to support wellness.

As I mentioned in opening, the skin barrier contains lipids, fats, wax, and fatty acids. Healthy skin contains adequate amounts of linoleic acid, according to Brian Goodwin, International Educator for Eminence Organics Skin Care. Linoleic Acid is the omega 6 fatty acid and can be found at high levels in many of my favorite plant-based fatty oils. Looking at a typical analysis provided by Mountain Rose Herbs, some of the fatty oils with the highest amounts of linoleic acid are Grapeseed (containing 65-85%), Evening Primrose (containing up to 72%), Sesame (containing up to 45%), Borage (containing up to 38%), Argan (containing 29-36%), Baobab (containing 24-34%), Apricot Kernel (containing 19-33%), Almond (containing 7-28%), Sunflower (containing 3-20%), and Olive (containing up to 17%). When plant oils are applied to the skin they help to occlude the barrier and seal in moisture. The Eminence Organics Facial Recovery Oil contains Olive and Sesame Oils and have been shown, in third party studies, to increase hydration in the skin up to 53% in 28 days. For those of you that are acne prone, rest assured that the healthy fats in the Facial Recovery Oil plus the antimicrobial, anti inflammatory, anti fungal essential oils of Tea Tree and Clary Sage will improve your condition. Mixed with the Rosehip & Lemongrass Repair Balm, which contains plant waxes, this combination creates a semi-occlusive barrier that helps the skin recover from damage as well as supporting it to prevent further compromise.

To address the constant struggle with inflammation that our skin is undergoing, choosing products that are high in anti-inflammatory ingredients is vital to the strength of the barrier function. One of my favorite summer moisturizers is the Eminence Organics Arctic Berry Peptide Radiance Cream. It contains 4 arctic plants that are rich in anti-inflammatory properties, and peptides to soften fine lines. The Birch Water Purifying Essence contains Reishi mushroom which is an adaptogen that may decrease inflammation and mitigate the skin’s stress response. Lastly, protect your skin from inflammation and increased cortisol with the all-natural mineral based sunscreen, the Lilikoi Light Defense Primer SPF 23.

If my research presented here from the new field of psychodermatology wasn’t exciting enough, consider one more finding that brings this psychosomatic research full circle. There is evidence that “stress-enhanced inflammation (can), in turn, effect the brain since neuroendocrine mediators and cytokines released during inflammation cause a feeling of malaise.” (7) This reciprocal effect shows us that self care is critical for our mental health. Keeping the skin healthy also keeps our brains happy, which is needed now more than ever. The good news is, research shows that inhibiting HSDI may reverse barrier damage (5), so if you need a visualization while you are practicing mindfulness during this social distancing time, try to imagine your nerves becoming calmer and your skin cells stronger, to protect you from this world.

Video of this blog available on my YouTube channel.

1. Pappas A. (2014) Sebum and Sebaceous Lipids. In: Zouboulis C., Katsambas A., Kligman A. (eds) Pathogenesis and Treatment of Acne and Rosacea. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg
2. Jafferany, M. (2011) Psychodermatology: When the Mind and Skin Interact. Psychiatric Times V 28.
3. Choe S., Kim D., et al (2018) Psychological Stress Deteriorates Skin Barrier Function by Activating 11B-Hydroxysteroid Dehydrogenase 1 and the HPA Axis, Scientific Reports
4. Tiganescu, A. etal. (2014) Increased glucocorticoid activation during mouse skin wound healing. The Journal of Endocrinology 221, 51-61
5. Terao, M., Tani, M., et al (2014) 11β-Hydroxysteroid Dehydrogenase 1 Specific Inhibitor Increased Dermal Collagen Content and Promotes Fibroblast Proliferation, PLOS One
6. Garg A., Chren M. et al (2001) Psychological Stress Perturbs Epidermal Permeability Barrier Homeostasis Arch Dermatol. Vol 137
7. Peters, E. (2015) Stressed skin? a molecular psychosomatic update on stress-causes and effects in dermatologic issues. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology.
8. Bin Saif, G., Alotaibi, H. et al (2018) Association of psychological stress with skin symptoms among medical students, Saudi Medical Journal, 39.

“At Home” Facial

Many of our clients have expressed how much they miss our facials at the Apothecary. Facials provide a much needed break from the world as well as increased radiance and skin tone! Our services also foster a trusted relationship that you may have come to value. While I cannot offer much more than a virtual face-to-face at this time, I can give you some instruction on how to build and maintain healthy home care rituals that support your skin care goals and help you manage stress.

This 2-part “At Home” Facial includes practices I have cultivated during this pandemic for health and beauty. Part one involves self care steps you can take in the evening and part two details a routine for morning. You can pick and choose aspects you personally want to embrace, and for specific product recommendations don’t forget to reach out for a free skin consultation!

Part one- Evening:
1. Cleanse
2. Masque and Tonique
3. Gua Sha with Rosehip Oil
4. Restorative Mind-Body Ritual Oil
5. Night Cream

In the evening, I recommend cleansing as soon as you know you are “in” for the night. This will ensure that you are not too tired for your self care routine. Apply a masque of your choice and go about your evening with whatever you need to do (check emails, knit, read a book…). For a list of masque suggestions and their benefits check out my recent blog post: Botanical Masques for Self Care. After 10-20 minutes remove your masque, dry your face, and pat with your favorite tonique. My tonique of choice these days is the Eminence Organics Mangosteen Revitalizing Mist because it increases the skin’s ATP and delivers micronutrients. Then, apply a generous amount of your favorite face oil and find a comfortable place to sit for Gua Sha facial massage. Massage using this simple tool helps promote detoxification and increases microcirculation. I find myself spending 15 minutes on this step because it is very soothing. When you’re done, apply the Stony Creek Aromatics Restorative Mind-Body Ritual Oil on aromapoints and pulse points. Instructions for Gua Sha and the Restorative Mind-Body Ritual can be found here. Lastly, on top of the face oil, apply a lightweight moisturizer like the Eminence Organics Lotus Detoxifying Overnight Treatment or the Arctic Berry Peptide Radiance Cream.

Part two- Morning:
1. Steam
2. Cleanse
3. Exfoliate
4. Finishing Products
5. Sun protection

After coffee and breakfast I have been starting my day with an old fashioned steam. In a pot of hot water add one drop of cypress essential oil and 1 drop of eucalyptus globulus and inhale for 10 minutes with a towel over your head. Cypress is high in pinene and cinene, and Eucalyptus is rich in 1,8 Cineole, chemical components that helps fight infection and clear respiratory mucus. I can blend them for you order you can order high quality essential oils from Aromatics International. I recently started incorporating eight quick lung strengthening and clearing breathes during my steams. I learned the technique from my friend and Ann Arbor area yoga instructor, Natasha Schaffer, in this video tutorial. After your face and lungs have been purged, cleanse the impurities from your skin. Following your cleanse I recommend stepping up your exfoliating routine by applying the Eminence Organics Firm Skin Exfoliating Peel or Bright Skin Exoliating Peel. Leveling up to the use of acids on your skin increases the cell turnover and promotes a healthy skin surface. Choose the Firm Skin if you want to see a decrease in fine lines or the Bright Skin if you are concerned with hyperpigmentation. Both of these peels are around 4% so using them every day is safe as long as you are following up with a moisturizer. Now that spring is finally here, don’t forget the sun protection too!

As with everything during this pandemic and in life, don’t let what you see other people are doing on social media make you feel like you aren’t doing enough. Try choosing just one or two things you could incorporate that helps you feel healthier and happier. You are worthy of love and care, and deserving of positive self thoughts. Stay healthy!

For more tips on how to give yourself a facial at home, visit “How to do a facial massage at home” by Eminence Organics.

“At Home” Facial VLOG:

Aromatherapy & the Stress Response Cycle

Many of us are experiencing a tremendous amount of psychological stress due to the current worldwide pandemic. I spent the last year and a half researching and writing about Aromatherapy for stress. Since I cannot share this information one-on-one or in the Symposium that we had scheduled for spring, I decided there is no better way than blogging to share this information with you in hopes of helping in your current situation. We need many tools to cope with the crisis. The inhalation of essential oils offers a direct interaction with the limbic system in the brain. The limbic system is known to be a powerful emotion processing center and is responsible for learning, memory, and emotional aspects of behavior. It is also the “brain’s alarm system” according to NAMI, the National Alliance on Mental Illness. The Limbic system along with the Hypothalamus and Amygdala are functionally linked. The Hypothalamus is in control of regulating various things in the body like heart rate, respiration, hormone secretion, blood pressure, and body temperature. It allows us to respond to our internal and external environment and maintain homeostasis.

The HPA Axis includes the Hypothalamus, Pituitary gland, and Adrenals. Acute exposure to stressful stimuli activates the HPA Axis. The Hypothalamus releases a hormone which stimulates a release of hormones from the Pituitary gland. Those hormones travel through the bloodstream to the adrenal glands where several types of hormones like cortisol are then released. Cortisol follows a circadian rhythm and is beneficial in many ways including the formation of glucose and suppression of inflammation in the body. With high levels of stress and chronic stress, however, the body releases high levels of cortisol which can lead to various health problems. People experience stressors in different ways based on our life experiences, and patterns of coping with stressors are effected by our environment.

Enter Essential Oils! Though my research was on “10 Essential Oils for Stress”, here I will highlight the five that I included in my Restorative Mind-Body Blend. Rose Otto, Sandalwood, Sweet Orange, Lavender, and Patchouli create a harmonious spa experience in a bottle.

In my research Rose Otto (Rosa damascena) was the only essential oil (EO) I came across that was shown to regulate cortisol. Rose Oil also caused significant decreases of heart rate and blood pressure (Songklanakarin J. Sci. Technol. V 26, 2004). The eugenol and linalool rich EO of Rose has the powerful ability to inhibit the HPA activation that occurs during acute and chronic stress (Chemical Senses Journal 37, 2012). From a Chinese Medicine perspective it regulates the liver and relieves stagnant conditions like tension and irritability (Aromatherapy for Healing the Spirit, Mojay, G.).

The preferred essential oil of my 20’s, Sandalwood (Santalum album), has proven its place in anyone’s aromatic medicine cabinet in recent years. There is an enzyme in various cells of our body called PDE4 that triggers inflammation in the skin and activation of the HPA Axis. Sandalwood has been shown to inhibit PDE4, thereby deactivating the stress cycle (Frontiers in Pharmacology, V 9, March 2018). In a new field called psychodermatology discoveries are being made, specifically in the link between our mental health and skin health. It has been further shown to be one of the most potent EO’s for atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.

Many studies on the therapeutic properties of Sweet Orange (Citrus sinensis) EO confirm its helpfulness in aiding depressive symptoms. In a human study, Sweet Orange EO “caused significant increases in heart rate as well as in subjective alertness” and suggest the relief of mild forms of depression and stress. (Congress on Medicinal and Aromatic Plants V 5, 2005, p. 75). It can also support in times of anxiety. There is a noteworthy study suggesting that Orange EO has an acute anxiolytic activity, “giving some support to its use as a tranquilizer by aromatherapists”. (Progress in Neuro-Psychopharmacology and Biological Psychiatry V34, 2010).

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is the most highly regarded EO for moderate anxiety, evident in the overabundant commercial (and often adulterated) use. Essential Oils that are high in linalyl acetate have a calming effect on the nervous system (Aromatic Medicine, Skipper C.). Clinical study after clinical study, involving dental patients, hospital patients, and people receiving an Ayurvedic Shirodhara treatment demonstrate lavender’s anxiolytic properties (Flavour and Fragrance Journal V 26, 2011). On a side note, for high anxiety I would recommend Melissa, or Lemon Balm. I have personal experience helping someone out of a panic attack with a couple drops of Melissa on a handkerchief.

Lastly, Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin) is an oil you either love or hate. Even if you’re a hater, blended with complementary oils Patchouli added a sweetness that cannot be matched. It contains the constituent, b-patchoulene, which exhibits a greater reduction in locomotor activity (Journal of Natural Medicine, 2011). Another study showed that Patchouli EO “caused a 40% decrease in relative sympathetic activity” (Japanese Journal of Pharmacology, 2002). At the same time, however, it helps with concentration and attentiveness as it has a stimulating effect on the brain (Songklanakarin J. Sci. Technol. V 26, 2004). Andrea Butje of Aromahead Institute speaks of it so beautifully when we look at it from the perspective of the plant part used in distillation: “We can use oils made from leaves to support respiration and deeper breathing. These oils can also protect us from infection. They can help us breath when we feel stress and anxiety, while supporting expansion and creativity. Leaf oils can also support us when if we get into over-thinking and need a calm, clear mind.”

Whether you look at clinical studies, Chinese Medicine, chemical constituents, or the plant part distilled there is both science and intuition that can guide you towards the essential oils that can help you achieve greater equilibrium. 7% of the aromatic constituents that you inhale goes through the olfactory nerves and 93% goes through the lungs, so make every breath count! My blends are available here.

Video introduction of the Restorative Mind-Body Ritual here:

Aromatherapy Certification

I have exciting news to share…
After 20+ years of self study and 3.5 years in my Aromatherapy Certification Program, I am now a Certified Aromatherapist!

My program consisted of 7 lessons and countless webinars, 20 Case Studies, a research paper, blending exercises, and an anatomy and physiology class. My research paper is now available for download on our website if you wish to read about 10 Essential Oils for Stress.

What does it mean to be a Certified Aromatherapist? The Aromatherapy field is self regulated, which means there is no governmental oversight (for now). Anyone can say they are an Aromatherapist! I chose to become certified through our only national non-profit aromatherapy organization called NAHA, or the National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy. My course was a 235-hour program offered through the fabulous Andrea Butje of Aromahead Institute.

When you choose to become certified through NAHA you agree to abide by their strict safety standards and code of ethics. In addition to my class through Aromahead I just completed the Essential Oil Safety Masterclass offered through the Tisserand Institute. I’m continuing with Robert Tisserand’s Essential Oils for Healthy Skin class which will be completed in June.

I am now offering an Aromatherapy Consultation for Stress based on my research findings. In this 1 hour Aromatherapy Consultation, I will take you through my 10 Essential Oils for Stress plus other supportive oils and connect you with the ones that will help you most. A personal inhaler, diffuser blend, or body oil will be created for you and can be refilled at any point without an additional consultation. The price of product is not included in the consultation fee.

In the future, my Aromatherapy Consultations will be moving out to our new Farmhouse. As many of you know we bought a farmhouse in Milan back in December. It has been glorious connecting with the land and watching what is blooming these early spring days. We have a lot of work ahead of us including the creation of a Farmhouse Lab and consultation space. If you would like to keep in touch with what’s happening out there, including all the animals we are aquiring, the best way is to follow us on instagram @stonycreekaromatics.

Throw back photo of the day. Circa 1997 in Kathmandu, Nepal. No makeup, no sunscreen, bad taste in footwear, but I brought my peppermint essential oil! It has been an amazing journey and it’s only just beginning!